Pie of the month: Squaring off chess pie

How does one keep a memory alive? By revisiting it again and again as if it were a favorite destination. If the memories are from trips, one can return to a place through souvenirs, photos, musings in a travel journal — and recipes.

My recent trip in Nashville had me on a quest to try a very Southern dessert – chess pie. As I explained in my previous blog, chess pie is a custard type of pie made up of eggs, sugar, vanilla and cornmeal with some recipes incorporating vinegar, buttermilk, brown sugar and even chocolate. The pie’s name origins have been credited to everything from the cabinet where pies were stored – a pie “chest” – to the theory that a cook, when describing the pie being made that day said it was “jes pie.”

However it was made or named, it is a sweet, sweet eating experience, very rich. It reminds me a little of the filling in pecan pies, sans the nuts. Probably something to be consumed in moderation, but if you want a flavor of the South, this is something you might want to give a go.

I found a recipe that combined two of my favorite things from Nashville: chess pie and The Loveless Café. These Chess Squares from the book, “Southern Country Cooking from The Loveless Café,” flip traditional pie on its ear by turning it into bars. A little like lemon squares, only gooier, this recipe adds a little twang with vinegar. The end result is very reminiscent of the chess pie I enjoyed in Nashville – delightfully gooey with a crumbly crust on top that forms during baking. Should I need to return to the Music City, I can just go into my kitchen…

Chess Squares
(From “Southern Country Cooking from The Loveless Café,” by Jane and Michael Stern, 2005)
½ cup plus 6 tablespoons softened butter
1/3 cup confectioner’s sugar
½ cup flour
1 ½ cups sugar
1 tablespoon yellow cornmeal
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon white vinegar
3 eggs

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Beat the 6 tablespoons of butter in a mixer bowl until light and fluffy. Stir in the confectioner’s sugar and flour; mixture will be crumbly. Press the mixture into the bottom of a 9-inch square baking pan. Bake for 20 minutes or until light brown. Combine the ½ cup butter and sugar in a mixing bowl until light and fluffy. Stir in the cornmeal, vanilla and vinegar. Add the eggs, 1 at a time, mixing well after each addition. Pour over the baked layer. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until the filling is almost set. Let stand until cool. Cut into squares.
Makes 16 servings

Blogger’s note: I would recommend spraying the pan lightly with cooking spray before pressing the crust in to ease removal of the squares. Also, I let the crust cool before topping it with the filling, although this is not mentioned in the recipe.

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